My Girl’s Trip to Porto
If I could describe Portugal in a few words, they would be: blissful, exhilarating, and incomparable. From the time I arrived, to the time I left, this country stole a piece of my heart. The water, the food, the people, and the culture were by far some of the highlights of my trip and explains why so many people are moving to this small, but bustling country. I learned so much about Portugal in just one week, but I definitely brought back some of its personality with me. I think it’s important that I share my experience as an American and as a Black woman traveling to Portugal for the first time.
Planning and Getting There
Let me start by saying that this was my first time traveling with all women on an international trip. I’m in tech, and I met these two ladies at a Women in Tech conference last year in Minneapolis. We all bonded over our love for Prince and a trip to Paisley Park after the conference was over. We promised to keep in touch and have since then met virtually every month to check in on each other – continuing to motivate and empower one another in our careers. We wanted to make sure that we also set aside time to see each other each year, no matter what.
After several weeks of thinking of places to go, we settled on Portugal. It was easy for all of us to get to, low on cost, and we could all get by with knowing little to no Portuguese. We all knew we wanted to avoid as many “touristy” things as possible and wanted to live like the locals for a week, so Lisbon was out. We settled on Porto, which couldn’t have been a better option! We had the Douro Valley nearby so we could get to the wineries with ease, Villa Nova de Gaia’s views and the romanticism of Porto itself. Now we had to get there.
It was three of us – one was flying from Denver with a 5-hour layover in London. The other was coming from Maryland with an 18-hour layover is Iceland, and me from DC with a 7-hour layover in Amsterdam – also my first time here. I was super excited to have enough time to explore! I landed in Amsterdam at 7am on a Sunday, ready to go on an adventure – only to find out that nothing, I mean nothing opened (if at all) until 9am. I took my time getting into the city and had my Uber driver take me to a coffee shop I’d researched called Back to Black. I love discovering new coffee shops and trying different types of coffee wherever I go, and this experience was nothing short of a vibe. It sat right by the canal and was only big enough for about 15 people, which made it intimate enough for a lazy Sunday. My second welcome into the city was a naked gentlemen, taking a long stretch on the edge of his boat before wrapping himself with a towel to go across the street. I was so shocked by the obliviousness of the patrons riding by, but then I remembered that in Europe, nudity is accepted and often celebrated. I continued to walk around – wandering from canal to canal and into a supermarket to get some snacks for later. The girls and I said that we would all bring snacks from our layovers and try them together. I bought some dark chocolate and walnut bites, along with a vegan nut bar (neither were that good).
When I finished my amazing latte, I walked around just to take everything in. I got a chance to visit a few other coffee shops in the area, walked past the Heineken Experience Museum and a beautiful park. I’d decided earlier that I was probably going to want breakfast/brunch so I picked Miss G’s, which was in walking distance. I’d seen this place on a Youtube video and the food looked amazing, so I made reservations a week in advance. There was honestly no need, since it wasn’t full when I arrived. They didn’t even ask for my reservation. I sat at the bar and talked to the bartenders – asking them about Holland and where they like to have fun and vacation (Rotterdam was a popular answer). When I finished there, I hauled an Uber back to the airport to catch my connecting flight to Porto.
Arriving in Porto
I arrived first and because I had been studying Portuguese on Duolingo for about six months, I wanted to test myself and take the train into the city. I was so proud of myself! It was super easy (with the help of Google Translate on some words), but I got to my Bolhao stop in 25 minutes. When I get off the train and walk out of the station, my first view was the view of the Chapel of Souls church. The first words out of my mouth were, “O my God!” I couldn’t believe how beautiful it was up close. The individual blue and white tiles had so much detail and this massive structure sits on the corner and sets itself apart from all the other buildings, so you won’t miss it. I would learn more about this building when I went on the African American tour later in the week.
When my friend Jo arrived in Porto, the first thing we did was exactly what you’d expect—we got wine! I mean…we were in Portugal, after all. A short stroll brought us to a charming spot called Original Eco Mercado, where we indulged in wine and a beautifully curated charcuterie board. The vibe was perfect: great music, friendly staff, and helpful recommendations from the locals who worked there. After a few glasses of wine, it was time for dinner. We wandered through Bolhão to a place called Elee’s. There, we tried a bit of everything, reflecting on our layovers and the foods we’d discovered along the way.
This was Jo and me embarking on our first trip together, despite knowing each other for years. Dinner became a space to share stories about our families, talk about aspirations, and set expectations for this girls’ trip. With full stomachs from amazing food and cocktails, we decided to take a leisurely walk back to the Airbnb. Kelly wasn’t set to arrive until the next day, so we had time to settle in and soak up the new surroundings.
Exploring the City
The next morning, we rose early to visit the iconic Mercado do Bolhão. The market was a sensory overload in the best way: vibrant fruits, intricate pastries, and bustling vendors filled every corner. It was hard to decide where to start, so naturally, we began with a port wine tasting. The guide introduced us to the various types—Ruby, Tawny, and White—and taught us about the best pairings. We followed this with buttery croissants, savory chicken croquettes, and crispy potato balls. After all that wine, an espresso was mandatory to keep us going.
We spent an hour wandering the market, marveling at the artistry in the pastries and chatting with vendors. Bolhão was alive with energy, and I felt immersed in Porto’s culture. From there, we decided to visit the famously dubbed “most beautiful McDonald’s in the world.” Located in a former Art Deco-style café, the McDonald’s Imperial is as glamorous as fast food gets. Its ornate chandeliers and gilded accents made it feel like a far cry from the McDonald’s we knew back home. We nicknamed it the bougie McDonald’s and shared a small lunch there. Despite the crowds, it was worth the visit.
By dinner, Kelly had arrived, and the three of us met at Gazela to try Porto’s iconic dish, Francesinha. This decadent sandwich is layered with ham, steak or roast beef, and melted cheese, all smothered in a rich tomato-beer sauce and topped with a fried egg. We ordered one to share and were blown away by its complex flavors—crunchy bread, creamy sauce, smoky meats, and the velvety egg. A bottle of wine accompanied the meal as we caught up on each other’s lives.
Before the trip, we’d had a conversation about how we each liked to travel. Kelly, who’s outdoorsy, was excited about horseback riding and a surfing adventure. Jo, ever the adventurer, had her sights set on day trips. Usually the adventurer myself, I approached this trip a bit differently than other trips. Work was very stressful at the time and I wanted to slow down and just be. Life often has me rushing to the next thing, but this time, I aimed to be present, savoring each moment and reflecting on how far I’d come. All I knew is that I wanted good wine, great food, and amazing conversations with friends over that wine and food! lol
We struck a balance, planning nights to go out, dinners together, and one shared day trip, while leaving room for solo explorations. On one of our first excursions, Kelly and I joined an African history tour of Porto. The guide shared the city’s connections to Portuguese settlements in Africa and the transatlantic slave trade, offering insights into the Cape Verdean and Mozambican communities that have shaped Porto’s cultural landscape. The tour highlighted how African influences are reflected in the city’s food, music, and traditions.
After the tour, we wandered through Porto’s historic streets before settling down for dinner along the Douro River, gazing across at the picturesque Vila Nova de Gaia. The gentle sway of boats and the golden hues of the sunset made it the perfect end to the day. We turned in early, eager to catch our morning train to Lisbon for our planned day trip.
A Day in Lisbon: Trains, Food, and Exploring the City
We arrived at the train station with about 15 minutes to spare and boarded our train from Porto to Lisbon. As a group, we had agreed that there weren’t many touristy things we wanted to do in Lisbon; the focus of this trip was simple—good food, good drinks, and good vibes. The train ride was about 3.5 hours, including stops, and turned out to be a relaxing journey through Portugal’s picturesque countryside. Along the way, we passed charming towns like Aveiro and Coimbra, soaking in the views of rolling hills and red-tiled rooftops. Jo and I made a note to revisit Aveiro later in the week to experience its canals and colorful moliceiro boats.
By 10 a.m., we arrived in Lisbon and set out to find breakfast. We stumbled upon a cozy spot called The Hideout, where we indulged in a hearty meal of eggs, toast, and coffee. Of course, no celebratory breakfast is complete without sangria, so we raised our glasses to making it safely to Lisbon! After breakfast, we split up to explore the city on our own.
I hadn’t planned much for the day, so I let my feet guide me through the cobblestone streets. I wandered past the grand Praça do Comércio, with its bright yellow buildings and sweeping views of the Tagus River, and strolled along Avenida Ribeira das Naus, a picturesque riverside promenade. As I soaked in the sights and sounds, one thought kept nagging me: I still hadn’t tried Portugal’s famous pastel de nata. Determined to change that, I headed to Time Out Market, Lisbon’s vibrant food hall.
The market was bustling with vendors selling everything from artisanal cheeses to fresh seafood. Inside, families and friends gathered around community tables, savoring their lunches. I grabbed a seat and ordered a pastel de nata with an espresso. The pastry lived up to the hype—rich, creamy custard nestled in a flaky, caramelized crust. It was unlike anything I’d ever tasted. I immediately went back to buy more to freeze and bring home for my family. With my mission accomplished, I spent a little more time wandering through the lively market before heading out.
Later in the afternoon, Kelly and I reunited for lunch at a restaurant I’d discovered through a YouTube channel called Top Jaw. Their vlog had featured Taberna Sal Grosso Alfama, a small, rustic eatery with incredible food, and I knew we had to try it. The restaurant was everything I hoped for—intimate, welcoming, and packed with character. We shared a citrus salad, crispy fish croquettes, and the dish I’d been eagerly anticipating: octopus with sweet potato. The octopus was tender and flavorful, paired perfectly with the creamy sweetness of the potato. Sharing a table with other diners added to the charm, creating an atmosphere of community and connection.
After lunch, Kelly and I spent the afternoon exploring Lisbon’s iconic hills and admiring the architecture. The city’s colorful tiled buildings and winding streets felt like something out of a dream. As the sun beamed down, we paused frequently to sip spritzers and Portugal’s popular Super Bock beer at small bars scattered throughout the city. It was the perfect day for bar hopping, and the lively atmosphere of Lisbon was contagious.
For dinner, we met up with Jo at a small restaurant near the train station to ensure we didn’t miss our ride back to Porto. After a satisfying meal, we boarded our train and arrived back in Porto around midnight, tired but happy from a day well spent.
Stay tuned for part two of our Porto adventures!
